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Ricks Home Made Used Car Oil Waste Oil Stove
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Read and study Roger Sanders web-page on his stove- http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_library/ethanol_motherearth/me11.html#constr

                                        

                     Comments, Questions

 
                usedoilstove@zoomshare.com
 

Step 1: Money mouth Knowing What You Want Money mouth 

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 You probably want cheap heat and don’t want to burn down your barn or fill it full of smoke. What space do you want to heat? What size metal tank do you have lying around? Keep in mind that your entire building will be part of the chimney. Be willing to spend a couple hundred dollars, even if you have some of the parts and material. $300+ if you have nothing. Be willing to put in a couple 2 or 3 weeks for research, collecting material, construction, and changing construction techniques due to “learning as you go.”  

Step 1.5: Smile The basic idea of what’s going on Smile

Image The idea is to drop hot-ish oil into a small(7”) metal bowl, so it burns and keeps burning at around 400 degrees. You're gonna stick some sorta pipe over the bowl of oil for air-flow. Build a chimney out of sompin, probably 6” stove pipe but I used 4”. The chimney needs to provide a good “draw” so that the door can be opened while the fire is burning.

Step 2: Undecided Knowing What You Need Undecided

  You need a 25+ gallon tank made of thick metal, or a water heater tank, or an old air compressor tank. You need a couple of old door hinges, a stove door gasket, some stove cement, and some sorta pipe. I used exhaust pipe. Buy some of those expensive triple-wall chimney stove-pipe pieces that are made to go through walls, ceiling, or floors. Image You need some kind of tank to hold oil, a little steel tubing and a screw-valve of some sorts; i used a water seperator from air compressor that has a screw-valve.  

Step 3: Cry Considerations of Cleaning Cry

  Look at some other intricate burner designs and imagine how much of a pain it would be to tear them apart and clean. Image

Problem 4: Yell Low Heat Operation Yell

   Oil gets below a certain temperature causing a smaller and smaller flame. The oil then does not have enough heat to keep vaporizing (burning all the incoming oil). The oil then builds up and flows to the bottom of the stove or fills the burner area. Depending on your burner size, this CAN BE DANGEROUS. Note- Do not use a 71 Chevy baby-moon hubcap as a burner”. This is simply too much surface area. I had oil build up in my stove while using this hub-cap. The fire did not have enough heat, air, or chimney draw to keep it burning. I then decided to open the door to see what was going. “wow, there’s a-lotta oil in there” (looking at a full hub-cap of oil). The fire was not too mad because it had enough air to lollygag around while the door remained open. I then closed the door all the way after having let in tons of oxygen and increasing the small fires heat. The fire decides to make a continuous “Phumb-Phumb-Phumb” sound and jump out the air-inlets reaching for more oxygen. Then, I was lying on my belly under thick black smoke that had filled the garage grasping onto a broken orange fire extinguisher pull-thing and an extinguisher that was not gonna do chit against three foot oil-splattering sparkly flames coming out of my stove in two directions (the 2 air inlets). I was lucky enough to have the stove burn off all the oil before I passed-out or anything caught on fire.  

 4.5 Low Heat Can Work:

Low heat operation does work good if you’re careful to match chimney size, air-flow, burner size, oil flow, heat inside stove, and heat (viscosity) of oil. It’s not as hard as it sounds but you still can’t walk away from it.  Update; Installed an extra 2.25" pipe from top to above burner. Airflow is good enough to keep the door shut. LaughingInnocent  ..............................................................................   .Image   Item 5: Embarassed FUELS ADDED TO OIL Embarassed Lowering the flashpoint (increasing flammability) of oil by adding some K2 Kerosene to the oil to help prevent oil build-up in the stove. This is DANGEROUS. I AM NOT AN EXPERT. PLEASE DO NOT USE GASOLINE. GASOLINE IS TOO FLAMABLE TO CONTROL NO MATTER WHAT AMOUNT YOUR USING. The huge amount of VAPORS are what burns from gasoline. Diesel Fuel or Fuel Oil (Same Thing, I Think?) could be added instead of K2 but I have not tried it. I am using 20% or less K2 and 80% or more wastw oil.        Image ..........      Problem 6: Frown Oil flow,Viscosity Frown

Viscosity, Viscosity, Viscosity, Raising the temp. of oil makes oil flow faster. Roger is correct in saying that running your oil around the chimney is a mistake. It is dangerous also. This is illustrated well on other sites where an 800+ degree stove  is shown that looks like it is getting ready to be forged into something else. Oil gets hot, oil flows more, stove gets hotter, oil gets hotter, oil flows even more, stove gets even hotter, oil flows even faster and so on; until all your “friends used car oil” or your garage is gone in an hour.

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However, I did have issues in getting oil/K2-mix to flow into the stove when it is 9 degrees or less. I could not get it to flow fast enough to create any heat after building a hot cardboard fire and opening the oil-petcock to “Mississippi river-setting”; that stupid fire still laughed at me. I propped up a ceramic heater to heat the oil as it exits the oil-tank. This worked great. Probably not the smartest thing to have a live 750 watt electric grid under where the fuel comes out.

Problem 7: Blah- Blah- Blah, Airflow, just to hear myself talk   Sealed Sealed 

  Oil flow rate is important but AIR-FLOW IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. Remember blowing on hot coals or building a fire on a windy day? Those pesky forest-fires. Wood fires are usually adjusted by changing airflow. Oil fires need to be adjusted by giving the fire as much air as it needs and then adjusting the Oil-Flow. HEAT IS THE WILD-CARD. Start with low oil flow on some paper then increase oil flow by super small amounts as heat rises in stove. 

Step 7.2: Laughing How to Start Building the Stove Laughing

I like Rogers design better than mine. I just used what I had. Pick a good place to put your stove on cement (in gravel in my case) away from EVERYTHING. Pick a spot where you can run the stove-pipe up and out without going through your wife’s antique-storage space in the attic. It is better to run the chimney inside the building. I am too lazy and cheap so, I ran mine outside as opposed to going through a ceiling, a floor and a roof. Deciding on a place to put your stove sounds simple but it took me 5 days.

 

Step 7.3: Wink Construction; Finally Wink See whatcha got lying around, get an idea of whatcha wanna do and start building. I thought having a welder would help but I really did not need it; the few welds around the air-inlet pipes could be done in 10 min. at your local weld-shop. The stove cement works good; get the kind in a caulking tube and cement every piece of stove pipe before sliding pieces together. I also put in a small stainless screw. Secure your stove. The most likely danger I can think of is a car hitting a 600 degree stove and knocking it over. The metal chunks for bottom of stove are for the oil to have more surface area to burn and for wood (IF EVER put in bottom of stove) to have air all around it.Image  . Works Good and Safe if Chimney is Kept Clean.

7.5 Know Your Stove; After 2 months, i am still learning from what my stove does. Pay attention to that "feeling" that you should not leave your stove. 99% of the time, those "feelings" are correct.

 

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